There are two ways to tile a pool in Mallorca, and both are right. The question is not which material is better, but what you are asking of your pool: whether it has curves or straight lines, whether you want the water to read deep blue or sand, whether the terrace floor should continue inside or stop at the edge.

This guide compares glass mosaic and porcelain against checkable criteria, so you reach the decision with the questions already answered.

What each material is

Glass mosaic

Glass mosaic comes in small tesserae — usually 2.5 cm a side — held together on mesh or paper-faced sheets so they can be laid in panels. Because the pieces are small, the sheet folds: it climbs a Roman step, turns a tight radius and resolves an organic shape without forced cuts.

Glass does not absorb water. That is its starting advantage in a shell that stays full all year. In exchange, it multiplies the grout surface, and the grout becomes the critical part of the assembly.

At Ezarri we work with mosaic made from recycled glass, with collections such as 50mm — tesserae four times larger than the usual 25 mm — Aquarelle, with soft anti-slip textures, and Gemma, with a gloss finish and distinctive veining. At Onix and Mosaico+ you will find other mosaic families for water and wet areas.

Porcelain

Porcelain is a ceramic tile pressed and fired at high temperature until the body is very dense. For pools you want the kind that declares a water absorption of 0.5 % or less and is expressly rated for permanent immersion: not all porcelain is.

Its logic is the opposite of mosaic: few pieces, few joints, continuous surfaces. In a rectangular shell the result is clean and quiet, and it lets you carry the same material — or its outdoor version — out to the beach area and the terrace.

At Rosa Gres you will find collections made for pools and terraces, such as Trésor — Bali, in turquoise tones, and Java, volcanic — or Mistery, whose Blue Stone is described as «perfect for terraces thanks to its resistance and excellent anti-slip finish». Also Sophy, with anti-slip, low-maintenance surfaces, plus Cuore and Coral in a light Mediterranean range.

Head to head

	Glass mosaic	Porcelain
Format	2.5 cm tesserae; also 5 cm	Medium up to large format
Water absorption	None: glass does not absorb	≤ 0.5 % in immersion-rated tiles
Curves and steps	Adapts without forced cuts	Needs trim pieces and cuts
Grout lines	Many: they define the result	Few: a more continuous surface
Continuity with the terrace	Material changes at the coping	Same floor inside and out
Water colour	Gradients and blended tesserae	Even, stable tone
Substrate demands	High	Very high in large format
Upkeep	Keep an eye on the grout	Easy cleaning, less grout

Zone by zone: where each one fits

The decision is rarely «all mosaic» or «all porcelain». Combining them is the norm:

• Inside the shell, with curves or a Roman step. Glass mosaic. This is where its ability to fold makes the difference.
• Inside the shell, rectangular. Either. Immersion-rated porcelain gives a more continuous finish; mosaic gives more depth of colour.
• Coping and edge. Specific trim pieces, with a rounded nose and an anti-slip finish.
• Beach area and terrace. Anti-slip outdoor porcelain. Mosaic does not compete here: you want broad surfaces, easy cleaning and comfort underfoot.
• Steps and level changes. They should be legible. A change of tone or texture helps more than any signage.

If you like the idea of the terrace floor continuing indoors, we cover it in our guide to the same floor inside and out.

The three things that actually decide it

Water absorption

This is the figure that separates a suitable tile from an unsuitable one. It appears on the data sheet as water absorption and must be 0.5 % or less for permanent immersion. The glass in mosaic does not absorb, so the question only applies to porcelain. Learning to read that figure — and the rest — is more useful than it sounds: we explain it in how to read a tile data sheet.

Slip resistance

Inside the shell it matters less; around it, it comes first. In barefoot, wet areas the usual reference is R11 and Class 3. It is a declared value, not an impression: if it is not on the data sheet, do not assume it. We have a dedicated guide to which anti-slip class a pool needs.

The grout

This is where the service life of the finish is decided, and where the budget is most often underestimated. Grout and adhesive must be rated for permanent immersion and compatible with the water treatment — chlorine or salt chlorination. Excellent mosaic with the wrong grout ages badly; perfect porcelain over a shell that moves does too.

We sell and advise on the material; the installation is your fitter’s job. What we can give you is everything they need to know in order to specify the right system: you can pass on our guide to laying porcelain floor tiles.

The water colour changes with the finish

This is the part that surprises people most. Water has no colour: it reflects the shell. A white finish gives a very pale, almost crystalline blue; sand gives green-turquoise tones; grey or black give depth and the look of a still sheet of water.

It is worth settling the colour before the material, because it shapes the choice more than you would expect. We go into it in what colour your pool water will look, and in the specific case of Trésor Bali by Rosa Gres.

What you will find at Gomila

In our Palma showroom you can see and handle both families before deciding: glass mosaic from Ezarri, Onix and Mosaico+, and pool and outdoor porcelain from Rosa Gres, among other brands in our porcelain flooring and mosaic catalogue.

We work with private clients and with professionals across Mallorca, advising on formats, finishes, trim pieces and material compatibility. If you already have the shell measurements or the project drawings, get in touch and we will go through it with you.

Frequently asked questions

Which is better for a pool, glass mosaic or porcelain?
It depends on the geometry. For shells with curves, a Roman step or organic shapes, glass mosaic adapts better. For rectangular shells and continuous finishes, immersion-rated porcelain gives a cleaner result and lets the same floor continue onto the terrace. Combining the two — mosaic inside, porcelain outside — is very common.

Can I use ordinary porcelain in a pool?
No. Only porcelain with a water absorption of 0.5 % or less and expressly rated by the manufacturer for permanent immersion. Indoor porcelain is not designed to sit submerged continuously or to withstand chlorine or salt chlorination.

What slip resistance does a pool edge need?
In barefoot, wet areas the usual reference is R11 and Class 3. It is a value declared on the product data sheet and worth checking before you choose, especially for the beach area, coping and steps.

Does glass mosaic need more maintenance than porcelain?
It has more grout surface, so the grout is the thing to watch. With a grout rated for permanent immersion and compatible with the water treatment, maintenance is perfectly reasonable. Porcelain, with fewer joints, makes cleaning simpler.

Can I use the same material in the shell and on the terrace?
You can use the same collection in different finishes: the immersion-rated one inside the shell and the anti-slip outdoor version on the beach area. That is the usual way to get visual continuity without giving up grip.

Where can I buy pool mosaic and porcelain in Mallorca?
At Gomila Cerámica in Palma de Mallorca. We have a showroom with glass mosaic and with pool and outdoor porcelain, and we advise on formats, finishes and trim pieces for private clients and professionals across the island.

A well-chosen floor can be ruined during installation. And the other way round: a simple material, properly set out and properly grouted, ages with surprising dignity. Between the tile you choose in the showroom and the surface you walk on every morning there is a week of decisions that are almost never taken calmly.

This guide gathers those decisions. It is not a manual for laying tiles yourself —that is a professional’s job— but what is worth settling before the work starts: how much material to order, what grout joint you are willing to accept, which adhesive your format calls for, and why large formats change every rule.

Before buying: setting out, quantity and batch

Three things are decided before the first pallet arrives, and all three are hard to correct afterwards.

Setting out. This is the drawing of where every tile falls. It determines where laying begins, where the cuts end up and whether the first row you see on entering is a full tile or a three-centimetre sliver. Ask your installer to plan it on paper and to keep cut pieces at the perimeters and under furniture, never on the room’s main sight line.

Quantity. Work out the real surface area and add 10–15 % for cuts, breakages and future replacements. Go to 15 % for diagonal layouts or very long formats. That margin is not waste: it is what will let you replace a tile in five years’ time without it showing.

The batch (shade and calibre). Ceramic tiles are made in firings, and between one and another there can be a slight difference in shade or size. All the material for a given room must come from the same batch, and it is worth keeping a few spare tiles from it. This is the detail most often forgotten and the one that causes the most trouble.

If you are still choosing the material, these two guides come first: how to choose the right porcelain floor for each room and the difference between stoneware and porcelain.

The substrate rules: flatness and moisture

No adhesive corrects a bad substrate. The surface must be clean, stable, dry and flat, and with large formats the flatness requirement is far stricter: a three-millimetre undulation that goes unnoticed on a 30 × 30 becomes a lipped edge on a 120 cm tile, and at that point the only solution is to lift it.

If the substrate does not give the necessary flatness, it is levelled beforehand with a self-levelling compound. It costs a day and avoids the one truly irreversible mistake.

• Residual moisture in the screed. A freshly laid screed keeps drying for weeks. Tiling over it too early can cause efflorescence and debonding. Your installer should measure it, not estimate it.
• Waterproofing in wet areas. In shower trays, bathrooms and terraces, the waterproofing membrane goes underneath the floor. Tiles do not waterproof; porcelain absorbs almost no water, but joints and junctions do let it through.

The adhesive: why it almost always ends up being a C2 TE S1

Ceramic adhesives are classified under EN 12004, and the code on the bag is not marketing: it describes exactly what the product does.

• C — cementitious adhesive. C1 normal, C2 improved (higher bond strength).
• T — reduced slip: the tile does not slide when placed vertically.
• E — extended open time: more margin before the adhesive skins over.
• S1 — deformable; S2, highly deformable. Absorbs small movements between substrate and tile.

For porcelain —which, because of its very low water absorption, grips less readily than a porous wall tile— the norm is a C2 TE, and for large formats, underfloor heating, outdoor work or substrates subject to movement, a C2 TE S1 or better. That is not over-specifying: it is what a non-absorbent material requires.

• Double buttering. Notched adhesive on the substrate and a thin coat on the back of the tile. Mandatory outdoors, in large formats and in any wet area. It guarantees no voids under the tile — the origin of pieces that sound hollow and eventually crack.
• Notches all in the same direction, and the tile bedded with a rubber mallet or levelling clips. The aim is near-total adhesive coverage on the back.

The joint: why “no joint” does not exist

It is the most repeated conversation in the showroom. Someone wants a continuous floor with no lines and asks for it to be laid tight. The honest answer is that the zero joint does not exist in ceramics, and anyone who promises it is creating a problem two years down the line.

Ceramic expands and contracts with temperature and humidity. The joint is what absorbs that movement. Without it, the stress releases wherever it can: lifting tiles or cracking them.

What you can do is reduce it to a minimum, and that is what rectification is for: rectified tiles have their edges machined after firing, so they all measure exactly the same and accept a very fine joint. As a usual site reference:

Situation	Indicative joint
Indoors, rectified tile	2 mm
Indoors, unrectified tile	3 – 5 mm
Outdoors and terraces	5 mm or more
Pools and immersion areas	as specified by the manufacturer

To that you add movement joints: a perimeter joint wherever the floor meets walls and columns —later hidden by the skirting— and intermediate joints dividing large fields. As an order of magnitude, indoors you subdivide from around 50–70 m² or when the room exceeds 8–10 m in length; outdoors, much sooner, around 20–25 m². The exact figures are set by the manufacturer and the project: what matters is that they are planned in the setting out, not improvised at the end.

One last decision, an aesthetic one: the grout colour. Matched to the tile, the joint disappears and the floor reads as a continuous surface. In contrast, the layout becomes the pattern. Neither is better; they are two different projects, and it is worth deciding with the tile in front of you, not from a catalogue.

Long and large formats: why everything changes

This is where laying stops being routine.

The offset between rows. With long formats —a wood-effect plank, a 120 cm tile— the temptation is to lay them half-bonded, like brickwork. Don’t: long ceramic pieces have a minimal but real manufacturing curvature, and setting the centre of one tile against the end of another turns that curvature into a lip. The general recommendation is not to exceed one third of the tile, and on very long formats to stay around 20 %. This is exactly the conversation to have when laying Kronos Les Bois, with lengths up to 180 cm.

Large format proper. Slabs from Inalco MDi reach 1600 × 3200 mm, and the IMMENSA line from Coem works in 162 × 324 at 12 mm reinforced with a high-strength mesh. Pieces like these require:

• Handling with a suction-cup frame and, depending on the format, two or three operatives. They are not carried by hand.
• Cutting in the workshop or on a guide rail, never freehand.
• Impeccable substrate flatness and double buttering without exception.
• An installer with demonstrable large-format experience. It is not a skill that can be improvised, and it is the variable that most determines the final result.

If you are considering large format, we cover it in depth in large-format tiles: sizes, advantages and uses and, for worktops, in the porcelain countertop guide.

At the opposite end is the small format —WOW’s Bejmat at 5 × 15 or Abbey Stone— where the joint is part of the material’s character and the tiler’s hand shows in every piece. And if the project involves mosaic, the laying logic is different and we explain it in the glass and ceramic mosaic guide.

Outdoors, terraces and pools: 20 mm, falls and slip resistance

In Mallorca much of the paving lives outside, and there the rules change.

The 20 mm thickness. Tiles such as Ragno’s RealStone Ceppo XT20 are designed for outdoor use and allow three systems: traditional bonded laying, dry laying on gravel or grass, and raised installation on adjustable pedestals, which keeps the installation accessible and resolves falls and drainage without touching the slab. It is the cleanest solution for a terrace over a waterproofing membrane.

The fall. Every outdoor surface needs water evacuation: around 1–2 % towards a gully or edge. It is resolved in the screed, before laying. A perfectly flat outdoor floor is a floor with puddles.

Slip resistance. Outdoors, on terraces and around pool copings, it is not enough for the tile to look good: it must have the appropriate slip resistance class. We explain it in detail in the guide to anti-slip pool flooring and the R11 class, and this is where WOW’s Marble and Abbey Stone (R11), Coem’s Sinai with its Soft & Safe finish and the extruded pieces from Rosa Gres for pool surrounds come in.

If the project seeks continuity between inside and terrace —same tile in and out, different finish— it is developed in the same floor inside and out.

After laying: the first few days

Grouting is usually done 24 hours after laying, and light foot traffic is generally accepted at around 24–48 hours, depending on the adhesive and conditions. Heavy furniture and loads wait longer. The exact times are on the bag: they are worth reading.

The operation that ruins most floors is the end-of-works clean. After grouting, a cement haze remains on the tile which, if not removed in time, sets and dulls the finish. It is removed with a buffered acid cleaner specifically for construction work, always with the grout already cured and the floor pre-wetted. Never with hydrochloric acid or aggressive products: they attack the grout before the dirt.

After that, porcelain maintenance is almost non-existent: water and a neutral detergent. No waxes, no polishes, no products that leave a film.

And if you want to understand what the data sheet of your chosen material is telling you —absorption, PEI, rectification— that reading is here: how to read a tile data sheet.

One last note

Installation is the invisible half of a floor. It is decided in a week and seen for twenty years.

At Gomila Cerámica we have spent decades seeing which materials cope well with site work and which ask for special care. If you are at that point —material chosen, work about to start— come by the showroom or write to us: we will go through the format, the thickness and the data sheet with you, and tell you what your installer needs to know before opening the first pallet.

You can see all our surfaces in ceramic floor and wall tiles.

Frequently asked questions

How much extra material should I buy to lay a porcelain floor?
Between 10 % and 15 % over the real surface area. 10 % covers cuts and breakages in a straight layout; go up to 15 % for diagonal layouts or very long formats, where cutting waste is higher. Always keep a few tiles from the same batch for future replacements.

What joint width should I leave between porcelain tiles?
Indoors with rectified tiles, about 2 mm; with unrectified tiles, 3 to 5 mm; outdoors, 5 mm or more. The zero joint does not exist in ceramics: tiles expand and contract, and without a joint the stress releases by lifting or cracking them. To that you add the perimeter joint and the movement joints planned in the setting out.

Which adhesive is used for porcelain stoneware?
Typically a C2 TE cementitious adhesive to EN 12004: improved (C2), with reduced slip (T) and extended open time (E). For large formats, outdoor work, underfloor heating or substrates subject to movement, a deformable C2 TE S1 is recommended. Porcelain absorbs very little water, so it needs an adhesive with higher bond strength than a porous wall tile.

Can porcelain be laid over an existing floor?
Yes, provided the existing floor is sound, well bonded, clean and free of loose tiles, and the gain in level is acceptable at doors and junctions. It requires a bonding primer and, normally, a C2 S1 adhesive. If the existing floor sounds hollow in several areas, it is better to lift it.

What is double buttering and when is it mandatory?
It means applying notched adhesive to the substrate and, in addition, a thin coat to the back of the tile. It is essential outdoors, in large formats and in wet areas, because it guarantees no voids under the tile — the origin of pieces that sound hollow and eventually break.

How long before you can walk on a newly laid floor?
Grouting is usually done 24 hours after laying, and light foot traffic is generally accepted between 24 and 48 hours, depending on the adhesive and on temperature and humidity. Heavy loads and furniture wait longer. The specific times appear on the adhesive packaging.

There is a moment, around midday, when the water in a pool stops being transparent and becomes colour. That colour — Caribbean turquoise, deep blue, lagoon green — almost never comes from the water itself. It comes from what lies beneath. And few materials decide it as precisely as glass mosaic, laid tessera by tessera across the shell.

In this guide we explain what glass mosaic actually is, how it differs from porcelain, which formats and finishes exist, how to choose the water tone you have in mind, and why it ages well even in salt-water pools.

What is glass mosaic?

Glass mosaic — often called gresite in Spain — is made of small pressed-glass tesserae, usually 2.5 × 2.5 cm, mounted on mesh sheets that are laid side by side until they cover the entire pool shell, including curved corners, steps and the overflow channel.

Unlike a large tile, mosaic works through the fragmentation of light: each tessera reflects the sun at a slightly different angle, and that vibration is what gives the water its living, shifting quality — something a continuous surface cannot quite reproduce.

At Gomila we work with glass mosaic by Ezarri, a manufacturer specialising in pool mosaic, with plain ranges, colour blends and anti-slip series.

Glass mosaic vs. porcelain: which one for my pool?

There is no absolute winner — there are two different ways of understanding a pool.

	Glass mosaic	Anti-slip porcelain stoneware
Look of the water	Depth, sparkle and nuance; the tone shifts with the light	More matt, calm and natural (stone or sand effect)
Format	Small tesserae on mesh; adapts to curves and steps	Large pieces; ideal for straight lines and broad expanses
Adaptability	Very high (organic shapes, beach entries)	Medium (better in straight geometries)
Underfoot	Soft; anti-slip versions available	R11 anti-slip as standard in many collections
Style	Mediterranean, classic, resort	Contemporary, minimal, landscape-integrated

If you picture luminous turquoise water and a pool with soft shapes, glass mosaic is your material. If you want continuity between the interior of the house and the terrace, with a stone or wood finish, look at our anti-slip porcelain and stoneware options for outdoor use.

And if you are still choosing the material before the colour, our guide to the best ceramic tiles for pools compares the three families — anti-slip porcelain, stone-effect stoneware and mosaic — alongside the collections we carry.

Water colour, by mosaic tone

This is the decision that generates the most excitement — and the most doubt. The colour of the tessera is not the colour of the water: water deepens and cools it. As a guide:

• Whites and sands → very pale, crystalline sky-blue water; the hotel look.
• Light blues and turquoises → the Caribbean classic, luminous and transparent.
• Greens and beige/pinks → green, lagoon-like tones that settle the pool into the garden.
• Greys, dark blues and blacks → deep, mirrored water; elegant and contemporary.

Ezarri’s blends combine several tesserae on a single sheet to produce a background with life in it, one that never reads as flat. We develop the subject with more examples in our guide what colour will my pool water be?

And if you want to see mosaic beyond the pool — in bathrooms, kitchens or wellness areas — we cover it in full in our guide to glass and ceramic mosaic.

Anti-slip, salt water and durability

Three technical reasons why glass mosaic remains a pool standard:

• Anti-slip. There are mosaic series with a specific anti-slip finish for steps, beach entries and walkways, without giving up colour.
• Salt water and saline chlorination. Glass is non-porous, so it stands up particularly well to the chemical demands of salt water and saline chlorination systems, which are increasingly common.
• Colour stability. Being pressed glass, the colour does not fade with sun or use; the surface holds its tone season after season.

How it is installed (and why the detail matters)

Glass mosaic is supplied in mesh sheets that the installer lays over the already waterproofed shell, using adhesive and grout suited to pool conditions. Two details shape the final result:

1. The grout colour, which can reinforce or soften the tone of the mosaic.
2. The setting-out on curves and steps, where the small tessera shows its greatest advantage.

This is specialist installation work: at Gomila we advise you on the material and the formats, and put you in touch with the right channel.

In short

Glass mosaic is the material that turns a pool into that pool: the one with nuanced water, the one that changes with the light of day. Choose the colour with the water tone you imagine in mind, consider an anti-slip series for walkways, and if your pool runs on salt water you will gain peace of mind.

👉 Discover glass mosaic by Ezarri and the rest of our pool solutions at gomila-ceramica.com.

Frequently asked questions

• Is gresite the same as glass mosaic? Yes. Gresite is the common Spanish name for glass mosaic: small glass tesserae mounted on mesh, used above all to line swimming pools.
• What colour will the water be with glass mosaic? It depends on the tile colour: whites give a very pale sky-blue; blues and turquoises the Caribbean classic; greens and beiges lagoon tones; greys and darks a deep, mirrored water. Water always deepens and cools the tone of the tile slightly.
• Is glass mosaic anti-slip? There are mosaic series with an anti-slip finish designed for steps and walkways, colour-matched to the rest of the collection so the surface stays continuous.
• Does glass mosaic cope with salt water? Yes. Glass is non-porous, so it withstands saline chlorination and salt water well — both common in pools today.
• Glass mosaic or porcelain for my pool? Glass mosaic gives depth and sparkle and adapts to curved shapes; porcelain offers a more matt, natural look, ideal for straight lines and for continuity with the terrace. It depends on the style of water and pool you are after.
• Where can I see pool mosaic in Mallorca? At Gomila Cerámica in Palma we work with glass mosaic by Ezarri and other pool solutions. You can browse the catalogue and options at gomila-ceramica.com.

Mosaic is the small piece that solves what a large piece cannot. It follows a curve, climbs a column, turns the lip of a pool and makes a flat wall into a surface that shifts with the light. Where large format seeks continuity, mosaic seeks vibration.

In this guide we cover the types of mosaic that exist — glass, porcelain, mesh formats — how they differ, where each one performs best, and which collections we carry at Gomila Cerámica.

What a mosaic is (and why it comes on mesh)

A mosaic is a surface made of small pieces — tesserae — mounted on a mesh backing, usually fibreglass, which allows them to be laid by the sheet rather than one by one. That mesh is what makes the material viable: the installer sets complete panels and the result keeps the regular joint of the small tessera.

From this come its two structural advantages:

• It adapts to curves and awkward junctions — pool shells, steps, columns, rounded fronts — where a large tile would have to be cut.
• It fragments light. Each tessera returns the reflection at a slightly different angle. That vibration is what gives depth to pool water and nuance to a bathroom wall.

The three types of mosaic, and when to choose each

1. Glass mosaic

The type most associated with pools and wet areas. Glass is non-porous, which gives it excellent resistance to moisture, chemical treatment and saline chlorination, plus a colour that does not fade in the sun.

This is the speciality of Ezarri, a Spanish manufacturer with more than 40 years devoted exclusively to glass mosaic, producing in Lazkao with 100 % recycled glass. Among its collections:

• 50mm — the same quality in a larger format: tesserae 50 mm a side, four times larger than the usual 25 mm piece. It allows projects at a bigger scale without losing the language of mosaic.
• Aquarelle — reproduces the watercolour effect, with soft anti-slip textures and a range of matt tones that read as both classic and contemporary.
• Gemma — inspired by precious stones: singular veining and infinite reflections, for when the mosaic has to be the protagonist.

We also carry vitreous mosaic by Onix, today the largest international manufacturer of the material, with 98 % recycled glass, zero porosity and antibacterial properties. Its Penta collection — square tesserae of 50 × 50 mm — runs through a palette drawn from the sea, coral and volcanic landscapes: Penta Carel with a marine texture, Penta Bora designed for wet areas and pools, and Penta Black Rock Matte, anti-slip with the texture of volcanic rock.

2. Porcelain stoneware mosaic

When the mosaic has to be walked on, or when you want a matt, mineral finish rather than the sparkle of glass, the answer is full-body porcelain. It brings the strength and low absorption of porcelain in a broken-down format.

That is the case with Quilt, by Mosaico+: square full-body porcelain tesserae with a score line that lets a segment be separated after grouting. That small freedom turns every installation into a different design, in a regular or irregular pattern, with the memory of Venetian Seminato floors.

3. Designer mosaic: when the layout is the project

There is a third family chosen not for performance but for drawing. Mosaico+ works this territory with designer-signed collections:

• P-saico (Marialaura Irvine) — elongated fragments of 10 × 30 mm set in irregular patterns forming modules of 315 × 320 mm. A contemporary reading of Venetian Seminato, in which the grout colour changes the result entirely.
• Mist (Kensaku Oshiro) — float glass with a matt finish, in three chip sizes on sheets of 300 × 320 mm, with an interlocking system that generates an endless pattern without visible seams.
• Jointed (Massimo Nadalini) — 5 × 5 cm chips engraved with a graphic motif that supports five different decorations; random arrangement multiplies the combinations.

Where to use mosaic: three scenarios

	Recommended material	Why
Pool and wellness	Glass mosaic (Ezarri, Onix Penta)	Non-porous, resists saline chlorination, follows the shell and decides the water colour
Bathroom and shower	Matt glass or porcelain	Easy to clean, adapts to niches and benches; matt avoids excess sparkle
Kitchen and splashbacks	Porcelain or designer mosaic	Resistant to stains and heat; the small layout adds texture without overloading

For a pool, the colour of the tessera is the decision that most shapes the final result: water deepens and cools the tone of the surface. We develop this with examples in what colour will my pool water be? and in our guide to ceramic tiles for pools.

If the project is a bathroom, in bathroom and shower decoration you will find mosaic combined with large-format floors.

Anti-slip, grout and maintenance

Three details that decide whether a mosaic ages well:

• Anti-slip. There are specific series with anti-slip texture — Aquarelle by Ezarri, Penta Black Rock Matte by Onix — designed for steps, beach entries and walkways, colour-compatible with the rest of the collection.
• The grout. A mosaic has far more joint than a large tile, so the grout colour is not a detail: it can reinforce the tone of the tessera or soften it until it disappears. In designer collections, the grout is part of the design.
• Maintenance. Glass is non-porous: water and neutral soap are enough, it does not absorb and it does not lose colour. Full-body porcelain behaves just as well on trafficked surfaces.

In short

Choose glass if the mosaic will be in permanent contact with water and you want sparkle and depth; porcelain if it will be walked on or you want a matt finish; and designer mosaic when the layout itself is the argument of the project.

👉 Discover the collections by Ezarri, Onix and Mosaico+, and the rest of our ceramic floor and wall tiles at gomila-ceramica.com.

Frequently asked questions

• What is the difference between glass mosaic and porcelain mosaic? Glass is non-porous and brings sparkle and depth, which makes it the reference material for pools and wet areas. Full-body porcelain offers a matt, mineral finish with the strength needed for surfaces that are walked on.
• What size are mosaic tesserae? The usual tessera is 25 mm a side, but larger 50 × 50 mm formats exist — such as Ezarri’s 50mm collection or Onix Penta — as well as elongated 10 × 30 mm pieces like those in Mosaico+ P-saico.
• Is mosaic anti-slip? There are series conceived with an anti-slip texture, such as Aquarelle by Ezarri or Penta Black Rock Matte by Onix, designed for steps, beach entries and walkways, and colour-compatible with the rest of the collection.
• Can mosaic be used on floors? Yes, provided you choose a mosaic suitable for flooring: full-body porcelain or a glass series with an anti-slip finish. For large trafficked areas it is also worth considering porcelain stoneware in a larger format.
• How is mosaic cleaned and maintained? Glass does not absorb: water and neutral soap are enough, and the colour is not altered by sun or by water treatment chemicals. In every case the point of attention is the grout, which should be sealed and cleaned with a non-abrasive product.
• Where can I see mosaic in Mallorca? At Gomila Cerámica (Calle Calçat 16, Palma) we carry glass mosaic by Ezarri and Onix and the Mosaico+ collections. You can browse the catalogue and samples at gomila-ceramica.com.

Few materials dress a space like natural stone: its depth, its veining, that sense of authentic matter. But stone asks a lot in return — it is porous, it stains, it needs sealing. Stone effect porcelain tiles resolve that dilemma: they reproduce the skin of the stone with a fidelity that now fools the eye (and almost the touch), backed by the technical performance of high-end porcelain stoneware. Here is where to use it, and the collections we have fallen for.

Why choose stone effect porcelain?

• The look, intact: veining, reliefs and nuances taken from real stones through high-definition digital printing; every piece varies, just as in nature.
• Zero porosity: it does not absorb, does not stain and never needs periodic sealing.
• Genuinely tough: scratches, frost, UV rays, cleaning products… it does not flinch.
• The same face indoors and out: the same stone effect in different finishes allows complete continuity between the living room and the terrace.
• Minimal maintenance: water and a neutral soap. Stone, without being a slave to stone.

Stone effect flooring: from the living room to the terrace

Stone effect flooring is the perfect base for Mediterranean projects: it brings calm, light and a neutral backdrop that ages gracefully. Indoors it is laid in the natural finish; outdoors, the same series in an anti-slip finish keeps the look and adds safety. And if you are after that “the house continues into the garden” effect, porcelain makes it possible: the same tone inside and out, each area with its own finish.

Stone effect wall tiles and cladding: walls with substance

On walls, the stone effect reveals its most architectural side: spa-style bathrooms, large-format shower walls with minimal joints, living rooms with textured feature walls and even façades. Current collections include reliefs and patterns (incised lines, sanded surfaces) that play with the light throughout the day.

Sinai by Coem: Egypt’s Golden Sinai stone, in porcelain

If one collection sums up everything above, it is Sinai, by the Italian brand Coem. It draws on the timeless beauty of the Golden Sinai stone, quarried in Egypt: a prized stone, widely used in architecture and interior design, whose predominantly golden tones — with veining that runs from beige to light brown — bring a glow of warm colour to a space. Its veined texture creates the welcoming, luxurious look that high-end residential and commercial projects are after… and Sinai reproduces it with the technical advantages of porcelain.

Five shades to set the temperature:

• Avorio — very light and luminous.
• Beige — the most balanced and natural.
• Dorato — with golden tones to the fore.
• Grigio — a warm grey.
• Terra — the most intense, with the strongest contrast.

And five finishes, each with its own character:

• Natural rectified — enhances the stone while preserving its original beauty; authentic warmth.
• Polished (Lux) — creates an interplay of glossy and matt areas that gives the surface a timeless sophistication. Coem also works glossy or matt grits into the surface, a production innovation that enriches the texture and the material feel.
• Exterior R11 Soft & Safe (in 9 mm and in 20 mm GresX2) — anti-slip, rethought: not only safe when wet, but softer to the touch, less prone to dirt and easier to clean than traditional outdoor surfaces. Also ideal for indoor areas in contact with water.

A format for every part of the project

• WIDEgres (6 mm) — Coem’s large slabs: 120×120, 120×240, 120×260 and 120×280 cm at just 6 mm thick (Sinai, in Avorio and Beige). Visually uninterrupted surfaces and complete continuity between floor and wall, indoors and out.
• The 9 mm collection — every colour and format, from 30×60 to 120.8×120.8, with the Exterior finish available across the whole range for indoor–outdoor continuity without changing tone.
• GresX2 (20 mm) — the technical outdoor porcelain: terraces, gardens and pool surrounds. It can be dry-laid over grass, gravel or sand, glued onto a screed, or installed as a raised technical floor (60.4×90.6 format).

One detail we are especially fond of: Sinai is made with a high recycled content — Coem starts from nature to create surfaces that imitate it… while respecting it. All told, Sinai resolves an entire project: interior floors in Natural, a large-format bathroom, terrace and pool in R11.

The same stone, everywhere.

From floor to worktop: the IMMENSA large format

The stone effect does not stop at floors and walls. Coem’s IMMENSA line takes these surfaces to a 162 × 324 cm, 12 mm large format, reinforced with a high-resistance mesh, designed for worktops, washbasins, tables and furniture. Sinai’s Egyptian stone, turned into a work surface. If a kitchen is on your mind, our porcelain worktop guide covers it all.

Discover it in Mallorca

At Gomila Cerámica, Coem distributors in the Balearic Islands, our stone effect collections are on display in the showroom: come and see the veining up close, compare shades and finishes, and let us advise you on your project — from the living-room floor to the pool area.

Frequently asked questions

What are stone effect porcelain tiles?
Porcelain stoneware decorated with high-definition digital printing that reproduces the look and texture of natural stones, with the technical performance of porcelain: no porosity, no sealing and minimal maintenance.

Can you tell the difference from natural stone?
Visually it is practically indistinguishable: current collections vary the graphics from piece to piece and reproduce real reliefs. The difference shows in daily life: porcelain does not stain and needs no special care.

What is Golden Sinai stone, or Egyptian stone?
A natural stone quarried in Egypt, with warm, golden tones and beige-to-brown veining, highly prized in architecture and interior design. Coem’s Sinai collection reproduces it in porcelain.

What is the R11 Soft & Safe finish?
Coem’s anti-slip surface for outdoor and wet areas: it meets the R11 class, yet is softer to the touch, attracts less dirt and is easier to clean than traditional outdoor surfaces. Available in Sinai in 9 mm and in 20 mm GresX2.

Can outdoor porcelain be laid over grass or gravel?
Yes. The 20 mm GresX2 version can be dry-laid over grass, gravel or sand, glued onto a screed, or installed as a raised technical floor — perfect for terraces, gardens and pool surrounds.

Does it need sealing like natural stone?
No. Unlike stone, porcelain is not porous: it does not absorb, does not stain and never needs sealing. It cleans with water and a neutral soap.

Some surfaces don’t simply cover a space: they define it. IMMENSA by Coem is one of them. Coem is one of Italy’s benchmark names in ceramics; within its catalogue, IMMENSA is its 12 mm large format —162 × 324 cm— with a stone effect, the surface conceived above all for countertops and large-scale design projects. It is born in Fiorano Modenese, the heart of Italian ceramics, and its philosophy —Natural Connection— starts from an essential language that gives new value to the depth of stone: its tonal vibrations, its veining and the textures the light reveals.

Large format: one surface, an entire project

The 162 × 324 cm dimension is more than spectacular: it is functional. The large slabs carry the veining and textures across an uninterrupted span, reduce joints to a minimum and bring a sense of openness and calm that is hard to achieve with smaller formats. The result is cleaner, more hygienic and visually seamless spaces, from floor to wall and from countertop to table.

Its home ground: the countertop (and much more)

IMMENSA is, above all, Coem’s line for countertops: its 12 mm thickness reinforced with a high-strength mesh, its full body and its performance make it an ideal material for demanding work surfaces. But its versatility reaches further. The slabs are workable and easy to handle, which makes them ideal for:

• Kitchen countertops and work surfaces — its signature use.
• Basins and bathrooms.
• Wall cladding with great continuity.
• Bespoke furniture and tables, and made-to-measure design projects.

Smart Edges: edges worked like natural stone

Because it is a full-body slab (the same material throughout its entire thickness), IMMENSA lets you finish exposed edges with the same tools and techniques used on natural stone. This is what Coem calls Smart Edges: a detail that raises the level of countertops, basins and furniture, with a noble, continuous finish.

Performance: the beauty of stone, cutting-edge technology

IMMENSA is a porcelain fired at high temperatures, extremely compact and stable. That translates into performance natural stone does not always offer:

• Non-absorbent and hygienic, odourless and food-safe.
• Heat resistant: no visible effect up to 200 °C (perfect for the kitchen).
• Stain resistant, and resistant to chemicals, acids, bases and solvents, as well as to scratching and abrasion.
• Frost resistant, resistant to temperature changes and to UV rays.
• Flat and stable over time, with excellent colour stability (it does not alter or fade).
• Releases no harmful substances and is anti-allergenic.

The collections: a catalogue inspired by stone

IMMENSA brings together a palette of stone-effect surfaces designed to be combined with one another and with Coem’s 6 mm collections:

• Reverso Beige and Reverso2 White — inspired by the reverse side of a travertine slab, its veined charm reworked with elegance.
• Millerighe Reverso Beige / White — a weave of fine raised lines, an exclusive technology, with a materiality you can perceive by touch and by sight.
• Touch Stone White — travertine texture with a cross cut, luminous and welcoming.
• Sinai Avorio — inspired by the natural Golden Sinai stone from Egypt, much sought after by architects and interior designers: golden tones crossed by beige and brown veining; ideal for the kitchen.
• Lagos Ivory — natural, earthy nuances, a minimalist and contemporary look.
• And further tones such as Milano Sublime Puro, Fluida Luminis, I Ciottoli Sassi Beige or Remixed.

Made in Italy: the know-how of Coem

IMMENSA is the fruit of a Made in Italy process that unites craftsmanship with the most innovative production technologies. Behind it is Coem, in Fiorano Modenese (Modena), one of the world’s capitals of ceramics. That blend of research, craft and design is what guarantees the surface stays unchanged over time and opens new possibilities for architecture and interior design.

Discover it in Mallorca

At Gomila Cerámica, distributors of Coem in the Balearic Islands, we help you design with IMMENSA: countertops, basins, wall cladding or bespoke pieces. Come and see and touch the large format in our showroom, or write to us and we will advise you.

Comparing options for your countertop? In our porcelain countertop guide we explain it all (effect, colour, thickness and edge), and alongside IMMENSA you will find the other large format we work with: Inalco’s MDi (Amara, Petra, Pacific, Ananda, Atalaia, Lyra). More details at gomila-ceramica.com

Want to dive deeper into this look? Our guide to stone effect porcelain tiles covers where to use it — floors, walls, outdoors — and Coem’s Sinai collection in detail.

Frequently asked questions

What sizes does IMMENSA by Coem come in?
IMMENSA comes in a large format of 162 × 324 cm with a thickness of 12 mm.

Can IMMENSA be used for kitchen countertops?
Yes. It is one of its signature applications: countertops and work surfaces, as well as basins, thanks to its resistance and its full-body finish (Smart Edges).

Is an IMMENSA countertop heat resistant?
Yes. IMMENSA porcelain shows no visible effect up to 200 °C, so it easily withstands the everyday heat of the kitchen.

What are Smart Edges?
Because the slab is full-body, its edges can be worked and finished on show with the same techniques as natural stone, for a noble, continuous finish.

Is it food-safe?
Yes. IMMENSA is hygienic, non-absorbent, odourless, anti-allergenic and releases no harmful substances, which makes it safe for contact with food.

Before choosing a porcelain countertop, almost everyone asks the same things: does it survive a hot pan? do knives scratch it? does red wine stain it? Here are the answers, clear and without the marketing, plus the care that keeps it looking flawless for years.

Does it resist heat?

Yes, very much so. Porcelain is fired at high temperatures, so it shows no visible effect up to around 200 °C. You can set down a hot pan or pot without damaging the surface. Even so, as with any material, using a trivet for very prolonged contact is a good habit.

Does it scratch?

It is one of the most scratch- and abrasion-resistant countertop materials there is. Normal kitchen use won’t mark it. Sensible advice: don’t cut directly on the countertop (for the sake of your knife edges and hygiene) — use a cutting board.

Does it stain? Is it porous?

It is not porous and does not absorb liquids, so it won’t stain from coffee, wine, oil, lemon or sauces. Whatever spills wipes away with a cloth; it doesn’t penetrate the material. That’s why it is food-safe and highly hygienic.

Does it withstand chemicals?

Yes. It resists everyday cleaning products, acids, bases and solvents without changing. It needs no special products.

Everyday cleaning and care

• Daily: warm water and pH-neutral soap with a cloth or soft sponge. Nothing more.
• Stubborn stains (very rare): a regular degreasing cleaner; rinse and dry.
• Avoid: very aggressive metal scourers and waxes/polishes (it doesn’t need them and they can leave a film).
• No sealing required (unlike granite or marble).

Can it be repaired? What about the joints?

Large format minimises the joints, and any that remain are resolved with precision. Because it is a full-body slab, exposed edges (Smart Edges) are worked like natural stone, with a seamless finish. A very hard, direct knock on an edge is the only thing to watch, as with any hard surface.

Is it suitable for outdoors?

Yes. It resists frost, temperature swings and UV rays without fading, which makes it ideal for outdoor kitchens, barbecues and utility areas.

In short

The porcelain countertop is among the lowest-maintenance on the market: it resists heat, scratching and stains, needs no sealing and cleans with soap and water. The look of stone, with minimal care.

Gomila’s porcelain countertops

At Gomila Cerámica we work with large-format porcelain from two leading brands for countertops: IMMENSA by Coem (stone-effect collections such as Sinai, Reverso and Touch Stone, with an exposed edge) and Inalco’s large-format MDi (Amara, Petra, Pacific, Ananda, Atalaia, Lyra). If you’d like to see and touch it, drop by the showroom or write to us. gomila-ceramica.com

Frequently asked questions

Do porcelain countertops scratch?
They are highly scratch-resistant; normal use won’t mark them. Even so, it’s best to cut on a board rather than directly on the surface.

Do porcelain countertops stain?
No. Being non-porous, they don’t absorb liquids, so coffee, wine or oil wipe away with a cloth without leaving a mark.

How do you clean a porcelain countertop?
With warm water and pH-neutral soap daily. For the odd stubborn stain, a regular degreaser. No sealing or waxes needed.

Can it handle a hot pan?
Yes, it shows no visible effect up to around 200 °C. For very prolonged contact, a trivet is good practice.

Does it need sealing like granite or marble?
No. Porcelain is not porous, so it requires no periodic sealing.

Choosing the countertop material is one of the decisions that shapes a kitchen the most, both for its look and for everyday life. Large-format porcelain, quartz (Silestone), granite and marble are the four most common options. Each has its own character; here we compare them carefully so you can choose with confidence.

At a glance

Feature	Porcelain	Quartz (Silestone)	Granite	Marble
Heat resistance	Very high (~200 °C)	Medium (may yellow)	High	Medium
Porosity / staining	Non-porous, won’t stain	Low porosity	Porous (needs sealing)	Very porous (stains)
Scratching	Highly resistant	Resistant	Highly resistant	Sensitive
Outdoor / UV	Suitable (won’t fade)	Not recommended (UV)	Suitable	Sensitive
Maintenance	Minimal	Low	Medium (periodic sealing)	High (delicate)
Look	Stone/marble/cement/wood effect	Uniform tones and veining	Unique natural stone	Noble natural stone
Format	Large format, few joints	Standard slabs	Block slabs	Block slabs

Porcelain vs quartz (Silestone)

Quartz is a compound of mineral and resin: attractive and low in porosity, but sensitive to heat (the resins can yellow under a very hot pan) and not recommended outdoors because of UV rays. Porcelain, 100% fired mineral, withstands heat and sun without altering. If you want a countertop for a demanding kitchen or an outdoor/summer kitchen, porcelain has the edge.

Porcelain vs granite

Granite is a very hard natural stone that resists heat well, with the appeal that every piece is unique. The trade-off: it is porous, so it needs periodic sealing to avoid absorbing oil or wine, and its layout depends on the block. Porcelain needs no sealing, doesn’t stain and offers large format with continuous, reproducible veining.

Porcelain vs marble

Marble is the most noble and luminous material… and the most delicate: it is porous, scratches and stains easily (lemon, wine, coffee), so it demands great care. Today marble-effect porcelain achieves that same elegance —veining included— without its fragilities: it doesn’t absorb, doesn’t scratch easily and doesn’t lose its shine. The sensible choice for anyone who wants the marble look without the upkeep.

What about Dekton or other ultra-compact surfaces?

Dekton and other ultra-compact surfaces belong to the same family as porcelain and offer very high performance. If that’s your specific question, we answer it in the article “Porcelain vs Dekton countertops”.

So, which one should I choose?

• Intensive kitchen, with heat and outdoor use, minimal maintenance → porcelain.
• Marble look without the fragility → marble-effect porcelain.
• Unique natural stone and you don’t mind sealing → granite.
• Uniform tones and you don’t cook “hard” → quartz.
• Aesthetics above all else and extreme care → marble.

Gomila’s porcelain countertops

At Gomila Cerámica we work with large-format porcelain for countertops through IMMENSA by Coem (162 × 324 cm, 12 mm, exposed edge; Sinai, Reverso and Touch Stone collections) and Inalco’s large-format MDi (Amara —the Binissalem stone reinterpreted—, Petra, Pacific, Ananda, Atalaia and Lyra). Unsure which material suits you? Write to us or visit the showroom and we’ll advise you. gomila-ceramica.com

Frequently asked questions

Which is better for a countertop, porcelain or quartz?
For heat and outdoor use, porcelain is superior: it withstands ~200 °C and UV rays without altering, whereas quartz can yellow with heat and is not recommended outdoors.

Is porcelain better than granite?
Porcelain is non-porous and needs no sealing, while granite requires periodic sealing. Granite, in turn, offers the appeal of unique natural stone.

Does marble-effect porcelain stain like marble?
No. It reproduces the look of marble but, being non-porous, it doesn’t absorb liquids or stain, and it resists scratching much better.

Which countertop needs the least maintenance?
Porcelain: water and a neutral soap are enough. Granite needs sealing and marble requires constant care.

Can a porcelain countertop be installed outdoors?
Yes. It withstands frost, temperature changes and UV rays without fading, making it ideal for outdoor kitchens.

The countertop has become the centrepiece of the kitchen, and large-format porcelain is today one of the most sought-after materials for making it. There is good reason for this: it brings together the beauty of natural stone with a set of technical qualities that no classic material offers all at once. In this guide we explain what a porcelain countertop is, its advantages over quartz, granite or marble, the factors that shape its price, and how to choose the right one for you.

What is a porcelain countertop?

It is a countertop made from large porcelain slabs — a ceramic material fired at high temperatures and extremely dense — usually in large format (up to 162 × 324 cm) and 12 mm thick (or 6 mm for wall cladding). Because it is a full-body slab (the same material all the way through its thickness), the edges can be finished on show just as they are with natural stone, for a continuous, refined finish.

Compared with smaller formats, large format carries the veining further, keeps joints to an absolute minimum and creates a sense of openness that is hard to achieve with other materials. (If you want to go deeper, we have a dedicated article on large-format porcelain.)

Benefits of a porcelain countertop

• Heat resistant: no visible effect up to around 200 °C — you can set a hot pan down without worry (within reason).
• Non-absorbent: it does not take in water or liquids, making it hygienic, odourless and safe for contact with food; it holds no stains from coffee, wine or oil.
• Highly resistant to scratching and abrasion: it stands up to intensive kitchen use.
• Resistant to the chemicals, acids and solvents used in everyday cleaning.
• Complete colour stability: it does not fade or change over time or with exposure to light.
• Suitable for outdoors: resistant to frost, temperature swings and UV rays, ideal for outdoor kitchens and utility areas.
• Versatile aesthetics: finishes with a stone, marble, cement or wood effect, from matt to satin, to suit any style.
• Seamless large format across the work surface, with continuity onto the splashback or front.

How much does a porcelain countertop cost?

There is no single price: it depends on several factors. The main ones are:

• Format and thickness (12 mm for a countertop; large format optimises cuts and joints).
• Finish and collection (the more elaborate marble and stone effects come at a different cost).
• Edge work (exposed edge in the Smart Edges style, mitred, and so on).
• Bespoke fabrication and installation (measuring, sink and hob cut-outs, transport).

As a positioning reference, porcelain typically sits in a range similar to quartz (Silestone) and below or on a par with premium surfaces such as Dekton or Neolith, and it usually makes up for it with minimal maintenance over the years. The most reliable approach is to request a bespoke quote based on your kitchen and your chosen collection.

How to choose your porcelain countertop

Four decisions shape the result: the effect, the colour, the thickness and the edge.

The effect: what each one brings

Porcelain reproduces almost any material today, and each effect has its own character:

• Marble effect — luminosity and classic elegance; the most aspirational look (veining included) but without the fragility of real marble.
• Stone / travertine effect — warmth, a natural feel and depth of texture; ideal for serene, warm settings.
• Cement / microcement effect — an industrial, minimalist aesthetic with a uniform surface.
• Wood effect — the warmth of wood without its upkeep (less common on a countertop than on a floor, but possible).

Beyond style, there is a practical nuance: veining and texture hide everyday use (fingerprints, crumbs, drops) better than a plain, perfectly uniform tone.

The colour: light, character and practicality

• Light tones (whites, creams, beige) open up the space, bring in light and are timeless; they also forgive dust and water marks better.
• Dark tones (graphite, mocha, black) add character and sophistication, but show fingerprints and dust more on very smooth finishes.
• Warm vs cool: creams and beiges bring warmth (pairing with wood and brass); greys give a more contemporary, neutral feel.

The thickness: the key decision

This is the one most people ask about. For a porcelain countertop you are essentially choosing between three options:

• 6 mm — lightweight. Reserved for cladding, fronts and splashbacks, or for countertops with a reinforcing substructure. Less weight and less cost, but it cannot take an exposed edge.
• 12 mm — the countertop standard. It brings sturdiness —reinforced with a high-strength mesh— and, being full-body, it allows the exposed edge (Smart Edges) to be worked like natural stone. The ideal balance for most kitchens.
• 20 mm (or a thicker-look finish) — for a solid, imposing look, outdoor countertops or projects that call for a sense of substance. That thickness can also be achieved with a thinner slab and a mitred edge that mimics the mass.

In a nutshell: the thicker it is, the greater the sense of solidity and the better the exposed edge; the thinner it is, the lighter and less costly, made more for cladding than for the work surface.

The edge: the finish changes everything

• Straight — the cleanest and most contemporary; understated and economical.
• Mitred (45° mitre) — joins two pieces at an angle to suggest a great thickness (4–6 cm or more) with a thin slab: a solid look without the weight.
• Exposed edge / Smart Edges — makes the most of the full body of the 12 mm: it is polished and profiled like natural stone, with the same material and the same veining on the edge. A continuous, refined finish.
• Softened profiles (bevelled or rounded) — for a warmer touch that is gentler to the hand.

The finish and continuity

• Finish: matt (understated, warm, hides fingerprints) or satin/polished (more luminous, with more depth of veining).
• Continuity: consider carrying the same material onto the splashback or front — even onto the table — for an enveloping effect (see our article on kitchen fronts).

Porcelain compared with other materials (summary)

Property	Porcelain	Quartz (Silestone)	Granite	Marble
Heat resistance	Very high (~200 °C)	Medium (sensitive)	High	Medium
Absorption / staining	Non-absorbent	Low	Medium (porous)	High (porous)
Scratching	Very resistant	Resistant	Very resistant	Sensitive
Outdoors / UV	Suitable	Not recommended	Suitable	Sensitive
Maintenance	Minimal	Low	Medium (sealing)	High

For a material-by-material breakdown, see the comparison “Porcelain countertop vs quartz, granite and marble”; and if you are torn between porcelain and Dekton, we have a dedicated article on that.

Gomila’s porcelain countertops

At Gomila Cerámica we work with large-format porcelain for countertops from two leading names:

• IMMENSA by Coem — the Italian large format (162 × 324 cm, 12 mm) with a stone effect and an exposed edge (Smart Edges). Distributors of Coem in the Balearic Islands.
• Inalco (MDi) — the large-format (160 × 320 cm) line from Inalco, in thicknesses of up to 12 mm. It brings together several stone-effect collections — Amara (born of Binissalem stone, Mallorca), Ananda, Atalaia, Lyra, Pacific and Petra — from a sandstone look to limestone.

Come and see them, and touch them, in our showroom, or write to us and we will advise you on your project. gomila-ceramica.com

Frequently asked questions

What advantages does a porcelain countertop have over quartz or granite?
It resists heat better (no visible effect up to ~200 °C), does not absorb liquids or stain, stands up to scratching and is suitable for outdoor use. Maintenance is minimal.

Is a porcelain countertop heat resistant?
Yes. Porcelain shows no visible effect up to around 200 °C, so it easily withstands the everyday heat of the kitchen.

Does porcelain scratch or stain?
It is highly resistant to scratching and, being non-porous, it does not absorb liquids or hold stains from coffee, wine or oil.

How much does a porcelain countertop cost?
It depends on the format, thickness, finish, edge work and bespoke installation. It sits in a range similar to quartz; the best approach is to request a quote based on your kitchen.

Can porcelain be used in an outdoor kitchen?
Yes. It is resistant to frost, temperature swings and UV rays, which makes it ideal for outdoor kitchens.